
Long before Krispy Kreme made its Northern California debut in Union City, I used to take walks with my dad up to the Winchell's on Clement Street for chocolate-dipped doughnuts. It was that kind of special outing that only fathers and daughters do, and I don't know if the best treat was the one wrapped in wax paper or the few minutes we shared, munching our doughnuts in the window seats and watching all the little old Asian ladies hurrying past with their pink plastic shopping bags. Winchell's packed up and left a long time ago, and while its successor All Star Doughnuts is apparently quite good, it doesn't hold the nostalgic charm that Dad and I remember.
Fast forward to sometime in the late 90s when the aforementioned Krispy Kreme had its grand opening at the Union Landing shopping center. It was a zoo. The drive-thru line wrapped around the parking lot, out the exit, and clear back to the freeway offramp. The poor, overwhelmed Krispy Kreme employees removed all tables and chairs from the interior of the shop and set up switchbacks for the restless mob, and the line still went clear out the door and around the corner. And this was at 2am...which was when Dave and I decided the coast would be clear to snag some warm delights right off the line. But we had just driven down from Berkeley, and there was no turning back. We had braved the Stormtroopers and light saber-armed fanatics outside the theater at the opening of the remastered Star Wars Episode IV, so we could weather this crowd, no problem. Or not: it's one thing to be surrounded by several hundred people reciting Yoda's greatest hits ("Away put your weapons! I mean you no harm!"), but it's simply medieval torture to be stuck in a slow-moving queue, inhaling the aroma of frying doughnuts and watching them glide past, glistening with glaze, on an endless conveyor belt. Biting into one at last was like that first breath above water after being a little too confident about how quickly you can resurface on one lungful of air. Gratitude, relief, satiation, all in one doughy, sugary mouthful. I have to say that each subsequent Krispy Kreme I have eaten since then has been somewhat of a disappointment without the hour-long wait.
So lately I have been surprised and delighted to see so many restaurants with doughnuts on their brunch menus. This weekend, my girlfriends and I shared a plate of cinnamon-sugar dredged doughnuts at Maverick (as pictured). They were warm and sweet, but not quite as soft as I had hoped. The weekend prior, a friend and I tried doughnut holes at Plow in Potrero Hill, and those were excellent -- just crisp on the outside (also sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar) but so light and fluffy in the middle, I could have eaten a bucket-full. And although not technically a "doughnut" but certainly a close relation, Tacubaya's churros are the perfect ending to a hearty, spicy huevos y chorizo, but you'll need the walk up and down 4th Street to burn it off. Keep those doughnuts a-comin', my friends, and perhaps they will inspire Dad and I to take a long overdue walk up to Clement Street for some chocolate-glazed ones.
Latest Comments